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Sheathing is pretty straight forward, but it does take some time due to the complex shape. When I say complex shape, I'm using the plumb and square shape of a house as a reference. My wheel house has the walls, by design, a few degrees out of plumb, and a three inch camber over the 11' length of the wheel house. So every sheet has to be scribed, back cut, hand planed, and jacked around until it fits.
The out of plumb wall thing looks good when you step back on the decks and look at wheel house, but it has given me a fit regarding the wheel house door. The boat yard has the boat blocked up a bit out of level looking at her from port to starboard, and with the wheel house door on the port side, the out of plumb wall is about double the design. The problem with this is that I built the door frame square on it's depth and water collects on the bottom of the frame and can't drain out. To remedy this problem, I used my die grinder with a rotary burr, and cut a little channel to run the water out. The channel works good, and once she's launched and sitting level, this will no longer be an issue.
The windows are 2" thick, and the walls are 5" thick. Because of this, I had to create an extension jamb between the plywood and the window frame. Being most familiar with a certain style of trimming out a window, I created a window stool before installing the extension jambs.
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Looking at the front of the wheel house, I used some to the reverse rake to create a 7" wide x 10" tall chase directly under the wheel house windows.
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With the walls now finished, the finished width of the opening getting up to the wheel house is 26 1/2". This is an important dimension as I have to be able to get the 24" wide clothes washing/dryer machines in to this area. This leaves the stairwell going down below with a finish width of 25". The down bound companion way is a fuzz narrow, but is OK comfortable for my 6', 200 lb frame.
Trimming out the stairwell took up the most time, and I'm happy with how it worked out. I used 1" thick stock with 1/2" dado's cut in to it to cover the edges of the plywood.
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Once the jambs were installed, I was able to fit the last piece of ceiling on both the port and starboard side.
The windows are completely trimmed on the wheel house front, but I still have to case the side windows and the door. The door needs to have some insulating paint on the jambs to create a thermal break as to not allow sweating thus dampening the fiberglass insulation I'm going to jamb in that opening prior to casing it. The casings are going to be 1/2'' plywood that I'll glue veneer to the edge. I don't want to create a fancy casing profile using solid stock, so the flat ply casings will work great for me.
I think I'm going to stay in the wheel house and get started on the navigation desk and console framing. The console is large enough for me to crawl in to so a removable panel will have to be created. Ease of access to the console is paramount as darn near everything of electrical importance home runs to this area.
Because there's no finish on any of the newly installed wood, some of the detail is hard to see. One of the things I like most about working with wood is the instant transformation one sees as soon as finish is applied. Really, I just like seeing any transformation that has me moving closer to launch.
Cheers
Hi Conall.
ReplyDeleteGreat progress...
I hear you on the fit-up of the plywood sheets. On our boat we used a lot of tongue and groove panelling, so I traded scribing big sheets of ply for cutting and fitting endless pieces of t&g. Where we have had to fit up complicated plywood panels to very odd shaped spaces, I found that (in the long run) making detailed cardboard templates saved me a lot of hassle.
Looking forward to seeing what you do with the helm.
Peter
Wow, nice progress! I think spray foam is the only way to go inside a metal boat....but it sure looks better when you put the finished plywood over top.
ReplyDeleteThanks Peter and Norm,
ReplyDeleteI'm totally happy with how the spray foam is preforming Norm... very easy to keep temperature.
I'm kind of itching to figure out the helm situation Peter. I'm debating of having the helm board level, or leaning it it a bit to make the gauge's more parallel to my eye. If so, how much lean, and how large an area? Right now, I'm thinking of having the area just in front of the wheel, under t he window, leaning. The area under the other fixed window is where the counter top that wraps around to the stair well will start??? We'll see soon.
Conall
Conall,
DeleteHaving spent a lot of time in a lot of different wheelhouses when I was running boats full time, I would highly recommend building up some kind of angled panels to mount your gauges and displays in, as opposed to mounting them on a flat or slightly angled console top. Not only are they easier to read accurately, they also stay cleaner and aren't subject to as much UV damage. Also, even the newer LCD panel type displays seem to wash out at extreme angles of view. I'm also a big fan of overhead mounting (slightly above your forward line of sight) for radars and other large display units- easy to read at a glance, but not a distraction when you want to pay attention to whats going on in the real world outside in front of you. When we did the helm for our boat, we made some cardboard mock-ups of everything and left them up for a week or so to make sure the layout felt right and didn't introduce any weird reflections or block any important sight lines.
Peter
Informative post. Thank you for that.
ReplyDeletePlywood Manufacturer in India