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To begin the interior, bolting lumber to the metal frames is the first order of work. To make it seem like I was getting something done, the first attachment I made was to bolt lumber to the ceiling frames. Because of the camber of the ceiling frames and not wanting to piece things together, I had to use a 2x6 for the ceilings. It seems like a lot of waste, but all the off fall was ripped again for the side wall frames.
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The basic method of getting the ceiling beams done was to clamp the 2x6 to each end of the frame. I then used a scribe set for the gap between the 2x6 and the frame at the center of the frame and scribed the top ( roof ) side of the cut. Because the frames are so long, and the curve not that radical, I was able to use a circular saw to cut shy of the line
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Gluing the lumber to the frames in addition to bolting might seem like over kill, but bolts have a funny way of working loose in lumber, and since the adhesive is not that expensive, I think it to be good insurance to prevent a squeak.
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As I type this post on this rainy Tuesday, I have all the ceiling beams finished in the wheel house, salon, and aft deck. I also have the wheel house walls and windows complete, and am getting ready to start on the salon. Another full day, and I should be finished bolting all the lumber in place.
I have an insulator showing up in the morning to give me a price on foaming the interior. I'm going to foam the interior down to within a couple of inches of the weld zones.
While I still have the boat in the shop, I'm going to also install the Cherry plywood at the window opening so I don't have to deal with that at the cold boat yard. I'm using a clamp ring for the window installation, so I have to have the finished wood in place in order to install the windows. The window installation is also complicated by the fact that the maximum wall thickness at the window is 2 1/4", while the frame thickness of the boat is 3 7/8". It's kind of a strange deal to describe, but on the salon windows and the side windows of the wheel house, the windows will be set in by the difference. The front wheel house windows will be flush with the interior as I was able to make the tabs work out to 2 1/4" wall thickness. It will look OK as I'm going to spend a righteous amount of time getting the trim right, but it does add a whole bunch of work to the window trim job. I'm not quite sure how the finish window trim will look, but I'm going to use each clamp ring as a template before I install and make a pattern out of paper board for future fabrication of wooden trims for the windows.
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The weather had for sure turned here, but I have plenty to keep me busy getting the super structure in a more finished state. Taking the super structure as far as installing the windows before she's landed and welded in place has entered my mind, but I think it too risky. I can install lots of the trim, some of the ceilings along with some wiring and a host of other items before I have to commit to taking her out of the barn. While I'm aching to have her assembled at the boat yard, all of this work goes much faster while she's in the barn.
Cheers
Sounds like the silver lining to the clouds of Sandy...Hey Conall, strapping looks good, but why not just bend a 2x3 into place vs cutting all the ceiling pieces?
ReplyDeleteMaybe on the next build Norm as that part of the job is in the book. I thought about bending, but thought it easier and neater cutting to form. Darn near all of the scrap is going in to strapping the wall frames.
ReplyDeleteNice work Conall. Fitting out the interior is, to me anyways, the fun part of the projects!
ReplyDeleteIf I remember my naval architecture classes well the lumber you're adding is called "furring strips". Just sayin'! :-)
Carry on, we're watching.
Rick