More cabinet work

The galley cabinet doors are finished along with the cabinet where the LP range resides. All the cabinet case work is finished and all that is left is to urethane the four drawers for the galley cabinets.

 Progress seems to have slowed down a bit as I've been doing a few projects around the house. One larger project was building an Island for our Kitchen. I had some nice Walnut stashed in the loft of the barn and just had enough to get the island built. The business end of the island has two doors and two drawers on it and give us some much needed cabinet space. We're looking for a remnant piece of granite for the top, so for the time being the plywood you see is doing fine.

The roof of the salon has about a five degree arch to it so I decided to build the doors to match the arch. I  built the cabinet box's square, but did not want the step look of square doors against the arched ceiling, so I decided to match the ceiling with the doors. The top style of the cabinet frame, was made four inches vs my standard two inches and scribed to the proposed ceiling. I should say at this time that I'm giving myself plenty of a fudge factor since I"m building all this without having finished walls and ceilings in place. In critical areas, I 'm building in large over hangs and fillers that I can scribe, trim and fit once she's at the launch site. It's kind of tough to do things this way, but it's how it has to be done. The bottom of the doors are square while the top of the doors  has a five degree angle on them. The five degree angle is also in the top of the raised panel. It sounds pretty easy, but it gave me a little of a fit. The angle changes just a fuzz as you move port, so I had to do some adjusting. Adjusting means throwing cut pieces in the wood stove and starting over. Once I had all the doors fabricated and I was fitting them to the ceiling, I dropped one of the doors on the concrete slab and gave the wood stove some more fuel. Replacing the door should have been a smooth operation given I built it once before, and still had my cut sheet. I must have forgot the measure twice and cut once thing, because I built the door backwards and ended up feeding the wood stove some more. I'm really in no hurry, and while it's a frustrating thing turning a simple job in to a dragged out comedy, it really doesn't bother me too much and I've given up getting pissed off. It's all over now, and I do think it looks pretty good. The bead board ceiling is going to be 5/8" thick and when I open the new doors it looks like I'm going to have about 3/8" clearance between the doors and the ceiling. It should look sweet against the painted ceiling.

The range cabinet is another build that became a little bigger than I had planned. Because I had to center the range in the galley, and me wanting a certain amount of galley space, I had to use 7" fillers on either side of the range. Not wanting to waste that space, I built two doors to go in each of the filler space. The doors are on their side, and while only four inches wide, one will be used for a spice rack, and one will be used to hang long utensils. I used some 1/4" aluminum round stock to created the keeper for the pull out shelves. Because I used raised panel doors on the cabinets to either side of the range cabinet, I had to do some careful layout when building the pull out shelves. One inch is about the minimum I like to go for a frame, so I was able to hold the pull out shelf an inch away from the range. This gives  me about 5/16 of clearance as the pull out shelve pulls past the raised panel door on t he sink base to the left, and the door/drawer cabinet to the right.   I had to  notch the back of the range cabinet so I could get a six inch air conditioning duct from the lazzarette to the wheel house, and this cut out encroaches in to the space under the range. Because I framed in the duct cut out,  I was able to create a larger pull out drawer under the range, and the smaller space  under that drawer ( where the ac duct notch is ) became a cubby accessed by a drawer front that flips down. I'm also  happy with how this looks and how I was able to snatch some usable space out of the range cabinet.

I've been toying around with how to build the drawers for the galley, salon, and wheel house and have decided on dove tails. All the drawers in the cabins below use a sliding dove tail on the drawer side that slides in to a dove tail dado on the drawer front. The sliding  dove tail is a good joint, but I like the look of the half  blind dove tail joint. For the four galley drawers, I'm going to  use a half blind dove tail and screw a drawer front on the that box. All the drawers are going to be solid wood  sides and fronts, with a plywood bottom and a plywood back. The back and bottom will fit in to a dado. The salon drawers under the salon table settee will also be half blinds with drawer fronts. All of these drawers will be overlays. I'm thinking about going with a different look in the wheel house and maybe use a flush drawer with a through dove tail for the joints. I'm getting a little ahead of myself with the wheel house thoughts, but it's not too far down the list. A guestimated drawer count for what I'm going to be building is four in the galley, seven in the salon, and eight or nine in the wheel house. When it's all said and done, I think I'll be pushing over 50 drawers on board. It's starting to feel like a floating cabinet.

I should be posting some drawer construction in a week or so as I've already started building them. 

Cheers    

I started the galley cabinets

Now that the window frames are ready for windows, the next big wood working project is the galley cabinets. I have quite a few more cabinets to build on board, but the galley is the heart of the salon and a good place to start.

 

 

 

 

The galley layout is basically a "U" shape. On the bulkhead wall that separates the raised pilot house from the salon is where the refrigerator will reside next to the engine room exhaust/intake chimney. Above the refrigerator is a 30" wall cabinet that will house a microwave oven. Next to the microwave oven will be a 36" double door wall cabinet with shelves. Below the 36" wall cabinet is a 15" base cabinet with a drawer and door. On the port wall of the layout is where the LP range will reside. I built a cabinet for the range to sit upon, and also notched out the back of the cabinet so my 6" air conditioning duct for the wheel house can sneak past. I was also able to get two small shelves in the range cabinet that will have a  single door front over. Because of needing space to get the fridge in and out of the galley, I  had to build two 7" fillers along each side of the range. Along with the range and the two 7" filler pieces, the width of the galley from the fridge to the other cabinets is 32".  I'm going to build two drawers on their side in those fillers ( 4" drawers) for a spice rack on one side and hanging utensils on the other. I'll get in to more detail once I start finishing the cabinets. Continuing around the "U", is where the sink base will reside. I built a 36" sink base to accommodate a home size double bowl sink. It was important to us to have a large sink and it's a detail all will appreciate. Next to the sink base is an 18" base cabinet with three large drawers.

 

 

 

All the cabinets and wood work on board the boat is American Black Cherry. Trees for the lumber were cut off of my property, and milled by neighbor Carl Claypool and his dog peckerwood.

My method of building the galley cabinets are to build a box, attach a face frame, then build style and rail raised panel doors. On other parts of the boat, I saved time,  money, and space by making some of the cabinets "built in" which  utilizes part of the hull as the cabinet "box". Because the wheel house and salon are still sitting in my barn, building cabinets as boxes is the only practical method.

Each box is built from 3/4" birch plywood. There is only one place where the side of any cabinet will be visible, and that side was made with 3/4" cherry plywood. The backs of the all the cabinets are 1/4' plywood, and I added a 3/4" rail to the top of the base units back, and to the top and bottom of the wall units back. The extra rail is to give me something more substantial than 1/4" material for mounting the units. The tops and bottoms of any cabinet is also 3/4" plywood let into a dado in the sides. The wall units have a top and a bottom, the base units only have a bottom as the counter will make the top.  I rabbeted the sides to accept the 1/4" back.

The face frames are solid cherry and have a width of 2". All the face frames were built using the Kreg pocket screw gizmo. I can't say enough good things about this method of building face frames, and it's become my number one choice when applicable.

The doors are the style and rail method and because I want a nice looking job, I decided to use a raised panel. I went with a traditional raised panel which is a 15 degree angle. I have an ogee cutter for my shaper, but I wanted something more in tune with what one would find on an older boat, and the 15 degree raised panel suited my thought. I cut the style, rails, and raised panels on my old Delta shaper.  I've posted about the shaper before, and I'll again say that caution is for sure the preferred attitude to have when using this tool. When the panel raising bit that weighs about a pound  is spinning at 10,000 rpm, and you need  hearing protection from the noise it make, a serious amount of respect quickly builds. When raising the panels, I use the table saw and remove a lot of the waste before starting with the shaper. I take light cuts, and always do the end grain first. The end grain is the hardest material to cut, and in case I have some chipping or a minor blow out, the next cut going with the grain will usually fix any end grain issues. The cutter is carbide, and sharpened to 600 grit so it's nice and sharp. The shaper has a great device to raise and lower the bit, and along with the micro adjustments on the fence, the level of precision is fantastic. When finished with shaping the panel, I sand it to 220, and give it a light coat of Cherry stain. Having some color on the panel before assembly will help prevent seeing a line at the style and rail joint once the panel starts moving with seasonal humidity and the wood naturally darkens.  I expect the Cherry wood to darken five or ten shades once it starts seeing some sun. The natural darkening is one reason I like Cherry.

I've been mocking up some of the structure in the salon. For the galley, I mocked up the bulkhead wall, and the engine room chimney. I also mocked up the ceiling above the fridge. The finished ceiling is going to be a bead board which is 5/8" thick. Using 1/4" plywood for the ceiling is not ideal and makes it hard to get a good scribe joint against the face frame. I left an inch of material to scribe for final fit against the real ceiling.  I'm being pretty accurate, but I'm also giving myself lots of wiggle room in regard to extending face frames past the cabinet boxes in critical areas for plenty of room to scribe and fit to the finished wall and ceiling material once those are installed.  Mocking up is not something I've done in the past, but It's the only way I can do this job. I've found a few issues during the mock up and was able to easily change some things that would have been a pain to do later down the road.

I could have purchased a set of rub collars for the shaper and made the raised panels fit the curve of the ceiling. I'm going to deal with the curved ceiling regarding the door fit by making the top rail of the doors fit the ceiling curve. I'll make the upper rail four inches vs my standard two inches and scribe it to fit the ceiling. The other option is to leave the door square and live with the stepped look of the square door against the camber of the ceiling. The different thickness of the curved top rail vs the square lower rail might make it look odd, but I think the overall look will be ok. We'll see how it looks in about a week.  The three doors you see in the picture above are two for the sink base, and one for the 15" base cabinet next to the fridge.

There is much more to post about the cabinet build, and as I get further along I'll add more detail.

Cheers

Window frames are ready for windows

The window frames are finished and another job has  made it off of  my list.

Once I had all the Cherry window frames installed, I wanted to make sure all the window trim rings fit as they should. I'm glad I did this, because I had to trim some of the frames to allow the trim ring to fit with the 1/8" clearance the manufacturer recommends. The window frames, like most other things, took up a lot more time than I would have estimated. I was also surprised that building the frames consumed a sheet and a half of Cherry veneer plywood. Only one frame made it in to the wood stove, so there was really no waste. The last time I bought Cherry veneer plywood was when I was building the cabins below decks two winters ago. I guess technology has allowed the plywood manufacturers to alter the veneer as this veneer is extremely thin. I don't even want to guess what fraction of an inch is, but one has to be very careful as sanding through it is not to hard to do. Because I was joining frames together using biscuits, it was critical that the frame faces were perfectly flush so that a light sanding with 220 grit would bring the two surfaces perfectly fair.

 

My system of using blocks, while a pain to install, looks like it's going to work out good. If I were to do it over again, I would probably glue the blocks to the hull sheathing vs bolting them in place as I did. I had the chance to glue some blocks in place, and also the chance to remove some glued in place blocks. The glued in place blocks I did remove, split away in the wood instead of the glue failing at the hull sheathing. I'd have no problem in the future of relying on a glue to metal joint in this application. Before gluing a block to the hull sheathing, I would recommend one scuffs the primer to give the glue something to grab. The biggest reason I wanted to use blocking was have a situation where I have no metal at all not covered with foam insulation. I have two small areas inside the super structure where the foam broke away from the flange due to my aggressive foam trimming, but that will easily be repaired when I foam the hull to super structure joint this spring. The only other place I have bare metal not foamed is the thickness of the hull skin at the window and door rough opening. Once the window is installed, it will be no bid deal at all to go back with a can of foam and seal this joint.

 The foam guy did a pretty good job overall, but the thickness of the foam was inconsistent at the window opening. While installing the windows, I'll have a roll of fiberglass insulation on hand so we can fill this gap. The metal is not exposed, but as you can see from the picture, the thickness varies. I want the maximum amount of insulation for a comfortable boat as much as I want to eliminate any chance of condensation.

I was going to temporally install the windows to see how they looked, but I soon realized that the more I handled them and had them out of the crate, the more they could get damaged. I had toyed with the idea of permanently installing the windows while the super structure is in the barn, but my gut tells me the move to the launch site and the work to land the super structure could jeopardize the windows.

The next project is building the cabinets for the galley. I'm well into the cabinet job and am happy with the size and layout of the galley.

 

 

 

Cheers

Window framing

Life and boat building have collided a bit as of late and, life won out. Now that the holidays have passed, boat building work can resume. As you can see from this picture, Winter has also settled in to our piece of the world, so the pace of life has slowed.

The foam is all trimmed, but the window openings still need some work. The work required by the openings is as much about the finished look as it is still prepping the rough openings. The rough opening in the metal is correct, but I still need to finish the opening so that the clamp ring for the window  has something to grab against. Typically, windows can either be bolted to a metal hull, or the style I have which utilizes a clamp ring to attach the window.

The wall thickness required for the windows is different than the wall thickness created by the frames on the design. The two wall thickness's add some work, and design challenge regarding  how the finish work will look.  Fitting the clamp ring  surface now vs at the launch site will shave mega hours off of this job and keep frustration at bay.

 

Since all the window openings in the Salon are the same, I decided to start there. I decided to build all the frames on the work bench vs framing each opening in pieces. The first order of the build was deciding how I was going to join the styles and rails of the frames. I'm partial to using pocket screws, but given the 1/2" thick plywood I was using, my prototype pocket screw frame turned out not near rigid enough. So given the pocket screw frame failure, I decided  to use biscuits. While biscuits take more time than pocket screws, they turned out to be the right method for this particular job.

Because I have radius window's, I had to make these frame with a radius inside corners. To make things easier, I cut the whole radius on the style pieces ( vertical piece). I made the style wide enough to accept a cleat later so I can trim the finish wall material neat to the clamp ring.  I don't need a cleat along the rail as the window will have some sort of sill on the bottom, and wall material on the header will have plenty to screw to above the window. Once I figured out the width of the style, I made a pattern, then transferred that to my work and cut it on the band saw.

 

 

 

I have enough clamps to do three window frames at a time. After an hour in the clamp, the  glue was set enough to un clamp the frames and clamp three more. I gave the frames a day for the glue to cure before I fit them in the openings. Fitting the frames required no more than pinning them in place using my brad nail er and some 1 1/4" brads. While doing the metal work to the super structure,  I had carefully bolted blocks the the metal so that when the 1/2" plywood was nailed to the blocking, the wall thickness would be exactly 2 1/4". Once the window clamping frames were installed,  I had to see how easily the windows installed, and how they looked against the cherry plywood. I love how the clamp rings pull the windows tight to the metal, and I love how well the radius looks. I also very happy  how fast the clamp ring is to work with. In terms of long term maintenance, the clamp ring should be more user friendly vs drilling 20 holes per window in the metal.  Once the windows are bedded in with the recommended sealant, I have zero concerns about these leaking. For the re fit of my previous boat,  I used the same windows ( Motion Windows Inc.)  and they gave me nothing but trouble free service. I'm happy to see the window  manufacturer has changed some things around and for sure improved on their design and manufacturing process.

I used Cherry plywood to build the frames, so if I want to stop at this layer of finish work, the clamp ring/frame joint will look good. I think I might add another piece to the finish work regarding window trim, so the cherry might get buried. Either way, I have it beat now. As soon as I finish the wheel house frames,  I'll go ahead and put three coats of Urethane on the frames, and then they'll be ready for the final install of the windows once we get to the launch site. There's three or four days worth of work ( in the warm shop ) prepping the openings to accept the windows, but once  I have it completed, it should only take two of us a couple of hours to get all the windows  installed once I land the super structure to the hull. It's important to me to be able to quickly have the boat  weather tight once she leaves the barn.

Temperatures are going to drop in to the teens tonight, so I have the wood boiler running  hard and the radiant floor heat has the shop floor up to about 90 degrees. The rest of the building is about 65 degrees and all is good in Conall-ville.

 

 

Cheers 

Foam

I've not posted for while as I've been waiting on my spray foam contractor. The crew showed up last week, and ran out of material about 15/16's through the job. It took them another week to get back on site, but all is good now and the super structure is foamed. It was worth waiting on the foam contractor as he did the job  for less than I could buy the material and do it myself.

All the metal is covered and I started trimming the foam flush with the wood firing. I held the wood proud of the metal about 5/16 ", and that has proved to be enough as the foam is sticking to the metal as I trim it. If I hurry things, and try to pry a piece of foam off with my knife, it will pop off of the metal which will need to get another coating. My goal is to have no metal showing so the metal won't sweat. I'm afraid that if any metal is exposed, it will sweat and drip on to the finished interior. A worse case would be if I would get some copious sweating and cause some crevice corrosion to start behind the liner.

Now that I have the foam in and can see how the windows will install, I think my method will work just fine. I will have a small 5/8" shoulder to deal with on the aft bulkhead wall, but it won't be that big of a  deal as there are only two windows on that wall. For the man door on the aft bulkhead wall, I installed blocking 3/4" in from metal rough opening so I can install a solid wood jamb. The solid wood jamb will let me install a temporary door to keep her locked up  once I get her down to the launch site. I'm not  going to try to fabricate the finish doors until I have the hull and super structure out of the barn and I have some room to work.

The aft deck ceiling also received a coating of foam. Experience from owning heavy equipment has taught me that  metal roofs will start dripping heavy as the sun hits the cool metal in the morning. Again, I don't want any metal sweating on the boat.

Trimming the foam is kind of a pain, and is going slow. Having caught a case of the winter crud from the kids is also slowing me down. I guess the one of the kids dragged a bug into the house and it latched on to me. I feel like crap, but foam trimming must go on!!! My tool of choice is a fillet knife. Dull knives are one of my pet peeves  I keep an oil stone lubed up on the work bench and every ten minutes or so, I'll put an edge on he knife. The foam guys  had some long, skinny spatulas that they put an edge on, and that looked like it too would be a good  tool . Like I said above, the foam will pop off of the metal if you pry on it. Once I weld the super structure to the hull, I'll need to buy a small kit to foam the weld zones. I'll touch up any damaged areas at that time.

The weather has  turned to crap in these parts, with cold temperatures and lots of rain. I'm hoping the snow stays away again this winter, but I think I'm hoping for too much.  Because of the weather, and the speed I can get most of these jobs done while she's in the barn, I'm  in no hurry now to get the hull out of the barn.  I have plenty to keep me busy for another couple of months. and there is two years worth of fire wood split to keep the barn warm.  I'm still planning on moving her this winter, but I have to finish some jobs I have going on with contractors, and I have to deal with the holidays coming up.Once the holidays are over, I'll get more serious about getting her off of the hill.

 Cheers  

Finished with the interior firing

As the title says, I'm finished with the interior firing, and await the insulator. While the firing job is neither sexy nor that much fun, it sure is nice to walk into the shop and smell fresh sawdust vs acrylic urethane, epoxy and thinner.

There's really not a whole lot one can say to dress this job up and towards the end it just felt like work. Looking at what's left of the 1000 count box of bolts, nuts, and washers, I have to conclude that I installed over 600 of those little rascals. My ten year old 3/8 air ratchet took a dive on me during this project, so that got replaced. I used a case of polyurethane adhesive, and a fair amount of lacquer thinner cleaning the adhesive off of my hands.

I had a few people ask me what I meant when I stated I held the firing proud of the steel frames, so I thought I'd include a picture showing how the lumber sticks past the framing vs explaining it. Installing it this way will allow me to use the lumber as a screed when trimming the foam, and will insure all the metal is covered with foam. Any metal not covered with foam has a high probability of sweating condensation then dripping on to the liner and creating a stain or damage. I know boats are a compromise, but having the lumber 5/16" proud of the steel does not mean squat in regard to head room or taking away from square footage. 6' 10" of head room or 6' 9-11/16"... who cares.

Wherever possible, I also held the firing off of the cabin sides. I pretty much stuck with 5/16" everywhere I could. My plan was to get as much of the metal covered with insulation. I used blocks vs continuous firing wherever possible, and once insulated, I'll pad things out to the finished wall surface with finished trim.

I'm going to go ahead and install the blocking for soffit   that creates the overhang on the salon. Since there are no side decks, once the super  structure is welded in place, that job will then need a ladder 16' above grade. I'll bring the soffit to a finished state including finish paint and the wiring need for accent lighting over each of the salon windows.

I have a bit of work to do before the insulator shows up in regard to taping off any finish paint I don't want to get spray foam on. Because all the window openings are finish painted now, I think I'm' going to fasten some 1/8" plywood in the window openings. There is no way paper is going to hold up to the force of the commercial foam gun, and I don't want to pay the foam contractor to stand around while I fix a screw up.

I'm going to foam the roof over the aft deck with a  half inch or so to stop any condensation. I'll also be installing a ceiling in this roof to hide the framing. One thing that bothers me with this ceiling is that the designer changed the height of the trim piece as it goes from the sides to the aft elevation. The trim is more narrow on the aft elevation vs the side elevations. Because of the way the roof is framed, in order to make the ceiling line constant, you'll see the edge of the ceiling material protruding below the trim piece on the aft elevation. I'm not into welding any fix in place now that everything is finished painted and I'm about ready to foam. A drip edge of some sorts might be an alternative or a slight change in the ceiling profile as it passes the last frame. There's more than one way to skin a cat, so it's not that big of a deal, just some more detail work. I can deal with the actual ceiling at the boat yard, but I have to deal with the blocking before the foam guy shows up.

As I sit typing this post on Sunday night, I'm listening to a Neil Young song with the lyrics "don't let it bring you down, it's only castles burning" drifting from my speakers. That lyric sort of seems appropriate in that sweating the small stuff gets us nowhere. In the end, getting there is half the fun.

Cheers,

I started the super structure interior

Because I am swamped with paying work, I've taken a few days off of the build. Hurricane Sandy has changed that, and caused  major slow down in my work, so I'm back to the important things in life... the boat build. I have to say that while we are four or five hundred miles from Sandy, we had 25 mile per hour winds sustained last night while  she came ashore.

To begin the interior, bolting lumber to the metal frames is the first order of work. To make it seem like I was getting something done, the first attachment I made was to bolt lumber to the ceiling frames. Because of the camber of the ceiling frames and not wanting to piece things together, I had to use a 2x6 for the ceilings. It seems like a lot of waste, but all the off fall was ripped again for the side wall frames.

The barn is about as full as it can get and the only place to set up my table saw is under the roof of the aft deck. I had to position the saw so I can make long rips through the door of the salon.

The basic method of getting the ceiling beams done was to clamp the 2x6 to each end of the frame. I then used a scribe set for the gap between the 2x6 and the frame at the center of the frame and scribed the top ( roof  ) side of the cut. Because the frames are so long, and the curve not that radical, I was able to use a circular saw to cut shy of the line. The cut put the saw in a bit of a bind, but it was not too hatefull, and that's what tools are for. Once the roof side was cut to shape, I re clamped the board to the frame, set the scribe for 5/16", and scribed the interior side of the cut. Once again, I used the circular saw ( vs the band saw ) and made the cut. All the boards are being held proud of the steel frame about 5/16" so foam remains on the frame flange after the foam is trimmed. With the board now cut to fit, I applied a bead of polyurethane adhesive and re clamped the board. I then use my right angle air drill, and drill through the existing holes in the steel frames. Next I use a hammer to drive the 1/4"x2" carriage bolts home, followed by a flat washer and a nylock nut, then tighten all the bolts using a 3/8" air ratchet

Gluing the lumber to the frames in addition to bolting might seem like over kill, but bolts have a funny way of working loose in lumber, and since the adhesive is not that expensive, I think it to be good insurance to prevent a squeak.

As I type this post on this rainy Tuesday, I have all the ceiling beams finished in the wheel house, salon, and aft deck. I also have the wheel house walls and windows complete, and am getting ready to start on the salon. Another full day, and I should be finished bolting all the lumber in place.

I have an insulator  showing up in the morning to give me a price on foaming the interior. I'm going to foam the interior down to within a couple of inches of the weld zones.

While I still have the boat in the shop, I'm going to also install the Cherry plywood at the window opening so I don't have to deal with that at the cold boat yard. I'm  using a clamp ring for the window installation, so I have to have the finished wood in place in order to install the windows. The window installation is also complicated by the fact that  the maximum wall thickness at the window is 2 1/4", while the frame thickness of the boat is 3 7/8". It's kind of a strange deal to describe, but on the salon windows and the side windows of the wheel house, the windows will be set in by the difference. The front wheel house windows will be flush with the  interior as I was able to make the tabs work out to 2 1/4" wall thickness.  It will look OK as I'm going to spend a righteous amount of time getting the trim right, but it does add a whole bunch of work to the window trim job. I'm not quite sure how the finish window trim will look, but I'm going to use each clamp ring as a template before I install and make a pattern out of paper board for future fabrication of wooden trims for the windows.

The weather had for sure turned  here, but I have plenty to keep me busy getting the super structure in a more finished state. Taking the super structure as far as installing the windows before she's landed and welded in place has entered my mind, but I think it too risky. I can install lots of the trim, some of the ceilings along with some wiring and a host of other items before I have to commit to taking her out of the barn. While I'm aching to have her assembled at the boat yard, all of this work goes much faster while she's in the barn.

Cheers